Fred's newsletter 16.2.21
One year ago, about to enjoy our first winter lunch in l'Auvergne.
Good morning,
This time last year I was in Lyon at a motorbike show with my son Camile. It was the first time we heard about what we now know as COVID-19. The French authorities told us not to worry, that the virus wouldn’t reach us any time soon.
That was the last time I visited France. Whist there, Camile and I decided to make a day-trip to our cottage in Auvergne for lunch with our friend Nabil. It was very enjoyable, and whilst it was very cold, the sun shone through the windows. On the menu we had paté de campagne, foie gras, boudin blanc, baguette and cheese, and of course a bottle of red wine - all from the local boucherie-charcuterie.
It may have been a flying visit but it was worth it to spend time socialising with good food and company. It was a 6-hour round trip for a 2-hour lunch!
It’s not often that we go there during winter, and it was good to see the church near our cottage. And it goes without saying that I loved the motorbike show. A fabulous boy’s trip with lots of bike chat.
Last week due to shortages (merci Brexit), we ordered and received artisanal Italian salami instead of our regular saucisse seche from the Pyrénées. I was pleasantly surprised and found it very tasty and enjoyable. I’m sorry I didn’t have time to warn anyone in advance. I hope you liked it?
This week we have velvet crab soup back on. It’s been difficult to buy fish so it’s crab for the time being. We also have a tasty pâté de campagne made with pork from Herb Majesty, pork liver, a good dash or two of Armagnac, a fair drop of white wine, garlic (of course), onions and seasoning. It was cooked on Friday morning and is maturing ready to hand over this Friday.
Having found a source for fresh blood, the boudin noir is back! It’s been a while. This one will be made using an old tradition from the Bearn area of France that uses the head of the pig. It will be cooked for a few hours then chopped into small pieces and added to a mix of sweated onions, then cooked further. This is tomorrow’s mission.
You remember last week, I was cooking a whole leg of ham on the stove, this will be sliced and rolled and served with a Russian salad of diced vegetables and fresh mayonnaise. An old school meal, all made in house as it should be - no shortcuts taken! And the snails will be served with chorizo again this week, you all seem to like it very much.
For mains, we’re making choux farcis with our pig from Herb Majesty. I hope you enjoyed that pork last week? I certainly did. It displayed great flavour that lingered on the palate - the dream pig for the charcutier, and not overly fatty! (I can’t find a clear translation for charcutier apart from pig butcher 😕 which isn’t particularly representative of the skill involved.)
For this dish, we will season the meat, mince it and roll it with Savoy cabbage. Some like to call it peasant food, and I love peasant food. Really love it. For me it’s the real food. Three Michelin-starred chefs are pinching ideas from peasant food these days, non? No wonder I love it.
The fourth meat on the menu is a game pie of pigeon, hare and venison, all supplied by Burnside Game in the borders. I have known the Rutherford family for a few years now. I mean a few years…the Glasgow days, it goes back a fair bit. I am glad we managed to maintain our relationship over the years. In fact, Johnny and Susan have 2 daughters that were born just a year apart from Matilde and Camile. Johnny has written a few words (click here) telling us about his job, or should I say obsession. Both he and his wife are extremely customer-orientated. Thank you Johnny and Susan for all the help and support received during the lockdown last year.
For fish this week, I’m hoping for some Megrim sole for a change. Fingers crossed we will get some. It’s also known as Cornish sole and pre-Brexit/lockdown it was all sent to the continent. It’s a fish often overlooked by the chef and general consumer. It will be rolled into fillets and served with a Matelotte sauce of red wine, demi-glace, lardons and roasted shallots. Demi-glace is a reduced beef stock in case you didn’t know.
Now, onto the specials. These will not reach the menu online. First up - I have ordered a batch of Bûchette de Manon from Mons cheesemonger. This is a pure 100g of happiness. Those with refined cheese taste buds will certainly enjoy. There will be very limited quantities, so please ask Sophie when phoning in your order. It’s priced at £12.00 and I would recommend taking it out of the wrapping and leaving it at room temperature half an hour before consuming. Enjoy little slice after little slice with a some baguette. No butter, no jam, nothing but the cheese and have it all on the same day. Don’t put any back in the fridge!
Also available (off menu) are limited portions of organic veal fillet from Peelham Farm, cut into medallions for quick cooking. This will be sold raw for you to cook yourself. Just pop in the pan for two minutes max each side. Those who need cooking instructions and who prefer their veal beyond rare need not purchase! A pepper sauce and gratin Dauphinois will come alongside, all at £20.00 per portion.
It goes without saying that the online take away for Valentine’s weekend was a success as we sold out early. It definitely helped to quieten the phone line. We are aware that it might be the way to go. Please bear with me as I figure this out, as I am quicker on my feet in the kitchen these days. Don't hesitate to send your order directly to lescargotbleurestaurant@gmail.com including your phone number, and Betty or Sophie will deal with this promptly.
Mes amis that’s almost it for this week. We have some chocolate left and we will post them anywhere in the UK. We’ve also had other enquiries, and we’re looking at a way of posting main meals anywhere in UK too. It’s not guaranteed, but we will look into it. It’s not an easy task, but I did manage to send a veal blanquette to London last week. We also have a few aprons and oven mitts still available for delivery.
These can be purchased on the phone when placing your order, or in an email. Aprons are £48, and the mitts £25.
I am surprised no-one came forward offering to write for our newsletter when I asked two weeks ago? Are there really no takers? Please come forward and tell us about your garden, your cooking experiences, a day at the market, a trip on a fishing boat!
Last but not least, Betty and I wish to acknowledge the work of my team. Bertrand, who has been working by my side in the kitchen for over 20 years. Gonzalo, who is mainly in charge of your desserts, and more. Sebastien and Sophie who have been holding the fort at l'escargot bleu for over 8 years. And Carole who, as an all-rounder, supports the business in many, many ways. It’s a very small team. Small but perfectly formed!
A bientôt,
Fred